I Interview My Esthetician

I wrote about my journey with my skin in my blog post Barbie World, correcting my acne scarring and redness after struggling with cystic acne from 17- to 21-years-old. For this month’s blog, I wanted to have a conversation with my current esthetician, Stephanie Tarn, to provide you with some tips and information on our skin and skincare. I started seeing her about five years ago when I was pregnant. I was breaking out again and had a lot of redness. I couldn’t take any medication or do some of the procedures because of the pregnancy, so we stuck to acne facials, extractions, a consistent home routine, and cryotherapy once or twice. I fell in love with her work and how cool she was as a person. She was available for any question or concern I had and would even make time for me to pop in at the spa if I wanted her to look at my face. In my early twenties, I started with another fantastic esthetician named Alyce, who was equally as passionate about her work and clients, so I know a good esthetician when I see one, and Steph is one of the best. She really cares about her clients and loves her work. I reached out to her and asked if I could email her questions about skin and skincare; thankfully, she was free to answer them. 

MyMiseducation: Hi, Steph! How long have you been an esthetician?

Stephanie Tarn: I have been an esthetician since 2014, so for nine years.

MM: What made you want to be an esthetician? I’ve found that not all estheticians work the same. I’ve had great ones, and I’ve had bad ones who I didn’t go back to after one visit. I believe what sets estheticians apart is their passion for their work, which you definitely have. Where does your love for skincare come from?

ST: Well, first of all, I have always had a strong passion for people to have confidence in themselves. I have had a lucky life in which I don’t believe I have ever been bullied a lot and able to stand up for others when needed. I believe people should not be embarrassed of their looks. At a young age, when I started wanting to use makeup and skincare, my mother insisted on getting quality products to the best of her knowledge. She wouldn’t allow me to use drugstore brands and took me to a Chanel Counter. I learned at an early age about the quality of products. I had graduated from college and struggled to find a passion for a job and honestly randomly decided to apply to Esthetics school. They happened to have an opening, and I had originally thought this would be a part-time gig while I decided on a full-time career. I ended up having a wonderful teacher and learned that I had many different opportunities with my license.

So the basis of my background has led me to always care about what the client's concerns are and gently guide them to what can help achieve their goals. I hated the thought of kids getting bullied because of acne and learned that a lot just needed a little education on what to do with their skin on a daily basis. Every new client gets a consultation where I let them speak first. I never go in and say, “This is wrong. We have to get rid of this wrinkle on your face, etc.” They might have come in just for a relaxing Bliss Facial, and that is what I will give them. My goal is always for healthy skin with confidence. I hope what sets me aside from other practitioners is my listening, caring, and compassion. I probably spend more time than others do with their clients because I want the time with me to be the best part of their day, especially if they had a bad day. People need a place to relax, refresh, and reboot. I also go in with a grateful heart, I know that there are estheticians everywhere, and I appreciate that the client has chosen me.

MM: What is the #1 mistake people make with their skin? Or what are some common mistakes?

ST: Lol. I’m sure most of my clients, you as well, will say, touching their face when not washing their hands right before. I’m a little bit of a germaphobe, and I see what people do with their hands and other people touch and then touch their face.

MM: Why is wearing sunscreen even on a cloudy day so important? Should we double cleanse at night if we wear sunscreen? If so, why?

ST: Yes, people definitely should wear sunscreen during cloudy days. UVA and UVB rays can penetrate through the clouds. Also, a cloudy day isn't always cloudy ALL day. Sometimes the sun pops out. Be ready! I always suggest to double cleanse at night. It is just the basics of cleaning anything. You are doing the first cleanse to remove everything, sunscreen, dirt, and debris. The second cleanse is actually cleansing your skin. Just like you clean off your kitchen counter, you remove all the crumbs first, then you sanitize and wipe it down. It wouldn't be truly sanitizing if you didn’t remove the crumbs and dirt first.

MM: How do we know our products aren’t working for us?

ST: This is a difficult question to answer. Products take time to work. Different products take different time periods too. One way to test is to just take a picture in the same lighting the first day you try a product and two weeks after, and then four weeks after and see if you see a difference. There are also extrinsic factors, though, if someone isn’t washing their face properly or exfoliating, the product might not even be absorbing into your skin.

MM: How does the climate affect our skin? In the past, I would travel out of the country and then come home to my skin breaking out really bad.

ST: Weather, climate, humidity, etc., all affect our skin. Our skin is the largest organ we have. It is there to protect us and show us what is happening inside. Think of it kind of like a sponge. If it's dryer outside, your skin can be dryer. If it's more humid, you could sweat more, and your pores could get clogged up more. Our skin is a living organism, just like plants. It is going to be affected by the elements. Just like our bodies need to acclimate to time zone changes, climate changes does that to our skin.

“What shows up on your skin is because of outside factors and inside factors. I
am here to help you figure out which one it is.”

MM: What acne triggers do you know about, whether foods or ingredients?

ST: Bacteria and Hormones are the two largest components for acne. Having a healthy gut and making sure your body is working correctly will help with acne. Washing your face twice a day is a must. Making sure you’re lying your face on a clean pillow case is necessary. Not touching your face all the time. These are the first questions to ask and go through before looking into foods and ingredients. Some people say too much dairy, sugar, and biotin, but there's no point going into that if you can’t do the basics to keep your face sanitary. Once I know you are doing that and it's not working then we will talk about hormonal acne or foods that could be causing your blemishes. What shows up on your skin is because of outside factors and inside factors. I am here to help you figure out which one it is.

MM: How often should you get facials if you have problem skin like acne, and why?

ST: Every client I work on is customized so it will be different for everyone, but acneic clients should be coming in once a week to every other week at the start. Like an infection, you want to clean it out and get it to a healthy self-healing point as quickly as possible. You can’t wait 4 -6 weeks like I suggest to my maintenance skin care clients, because the bacteria will just get the chance to spread and grow. Eventually when it is controlled yes, but with acne it should be more frequent in the beginning.

MM: What are the benefits of microneedling/microchanneling? Is it the best procedure for stretch marks and acne scarring? I’ve done six sessions of microneedling, and it’s by far my favorite procedure. It really helped my skin texture and got my face feeling smooth again. I love touching my face now, which I know you don’t approve of, and I try not to do it often! I plan to do microchanneling with you at some point.

ST: Procell Microchanneling is a collagen induction therapy. It helps with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, surgical scars, stretch marks, sun damage, dark spots, and hyperpigmentation; it firms, tightens, and tones the skin. I believe it is one of the best non-invasive long-lasting treatments for stretch marks, scarring, and skin rejuvenation. The treatment is causing a controlled wound cascade and healing process. I use medical-grade growth factors that help to boost the healing process and will then naturally kick start your collagen production which starts slowing down for everyone around the age of 20. I feel like getting Procell Microchanneling is like a fountain of youth treatment with long-lasting benefits.

MM: Can you get too many chemical peels? Is there any damage we should be aware of with this procedure?

ST: There are definitely contraindications to chemical peels. There are so many different kinds of peels as well. It all depends on what is being used and how it was formulated. There are lactic, glycolic, and salicylic, just to name a few. All do different things. Some companies mix different chemicals together in one peel. Never get a chemical peel if you are pregnant or breastfeeding. Some autoimmune clients should not get chemical peels as well. This technique is also causing a controlled wound to the skin. If a client does not heal very well naturally, I would never perform a peel on them. Healing is always part of the process of a peel, even if you don’t “peel” estheticians must be making sure the client will comply with their post-care. Not all peels can be done on all Fitzpatrick* types and there is a potential to burn or scar a client if they do not pick the correct peel. When I worked for a skincare company, I had talked to a practitioner who did a peel on a client, who then went directly to the beach, with no sunscreen, and exfoliated her skin afterward. She had to have multiple skin graftings because of the non-compliance. When looking for a skincare expert, don’t be afraid to ask questions, like how many times have you used this peel before? Have you worked with my Fitzpatrick type before? 

*The Fitzpatrick scale is a numerical classification schema for human skin color as a way to estimate the response of different types of skin to ultraviolet light.

MM: I know how much better it is to invest in skin products versus buying them at a grocery store or pharmacy. Can you explain why spending more money on quality products is better?

ST: I always suggest to my clients to use professional grade or medical grade products. Skin care is not FDA approved so manufacturers can literally label the product as “Organic” if they just have 1% of the least ingredient in the product. Over-the-counter products are made in HUGE batches. In general, when making such large quantities, the quality of the ingredients goes down and more preservatives go in. Professional and medical-grade products are made in much smaller batches and in general, their active ingredients are going to be higher on the list of ingredients. When they are using better ingredients, you don't have to use as much product for it to work. The cost per use ends up being better for you. Professional and medical products must go through clinical and medical studies to be labeled as such. There is a popular brand that is fairly cheap that a lot of people use. It’s for chemical exfoliation. A professional brand with quality ingredients would probably use something like lactic or glycolic. This over-the-counter brand uses lye, which can also be used to decompose bodies. Lye is a pretty cheap ingredient and can sometimes exfoliate/damage the skin and ruin the skin’s natural barrier more than I would like for healthy skin downtime.

MM: I’ve learned that getting the skin you want is a process. It takes so much time and investment to treat problem areas. Any cases come to mind of someone who wanted to correct an issue, and you were able to help?

ST: Lol, this is my job. Too many to go through, but visit my page @loveyourskinbysteph on Instagram for some before and after pictures. I will post in my stories some of my client feedback.

MM: If you had to pick the most essential products for the shortest skincare routine, what would they be? 

ST: A cleanser. I like Lipid Replacing Cleanser from Circadia and Strawberry Cleanser from Saian Skincare. These are two cleansers that are good for all skin types that won’t dry out the skin, but give you a good cleansing. I would also highly suggest getting a silicone skin scrubber to help with better cleansing. At night, always double cleanse. Use a retinoid product and moisturizer for healthy skin cell turnover. And of course daytime vitamin C and sunscreen of at least 30 spf every day.

MM: My favorite product was introduced to me last year by you. Vital-K Crème really helped my redness a lot. What’s your favorite product and why? Also, what’s your favorite procedure and why? 

ST: My favorite product that I have been using for years is Intellishade by Revision. I have looked for other products that were similar but this one is still my favorite. This is a daytime product that has my sun protection, SPF, and moisturizer and it is lightly tinted. I don’t wear foundation so it is perfect for light coverage. It is protecting my skin while correcting it. My favorite procedure is Procell Microchanneling! I liked it so much, I decided to become a sales rep and trainer for the company. I love it for its long-lasting results.

MM: Do you have any tips on how to treat a breakout at home?

ST: Besides the other information I gave earlier, I would suggest for clients with pustules or papules to try using some antiseptic like iodine on their larger spots. If it came from a bacterial infection this will help to shrink it down. Also Hydrocolloid patches. That will help to heal and pull out the bacteria from the spots.

MM: I really love your IG account because you offer amazing tips and show natural skin, like celebrities with and without makeup, and photos of before and after cosmetic procedures. Your handle is literally called Love Your Skin By Steph! There are these crazy beauty standards that are impossible to meet, and you like to keep it real and show that it’s normal to have pores, texture, and breakouts. You preach that skincare is healthcare, which I also know to be true. Why is it important to you to show real skin? I’m sure clients come to you all the time (like me!) saying they don’t want any pores or texture, but those things are okay! There’s no such thing as perfect skin. Even celebrities don’t look perfect the way they portray themselves to be.

“Our skin goes through A LOT! It is there to keep our organs safe, shows us what is happening inside, and protects us from the elements outside. Be kind to it.”

ST: I’m a real esthetician who gets real results. One of the most important parts of my work and goals is to make people feel better about themselves. I want people to understand that perfection is never going to always be achievable. People with flawless skin might get a pimple once in a while. The average person does not have five stylists, six makeup artists, and $10,000 lighting equipment. So we need to strive for healthy skin and not fake unattainable pictures that are floating around the internet. You’ll never be happy chasing something that isn’t real. What all people can do is strive to have healthy skin care habits to get healthier skin.

MM: In your time in the skincare industry, what are some things you have learned about our skin that would be helpful to know?

ST: Our skin goes through A LOT! It is there to keep our organs safe, shows us what is happening inside, and protects us from the elements outside. Be kind to it. Patience. Commitment. Understanding changes. No one treatment, one face wash, or one product is going to help you achieve all your goals. Treat your skin well and it will take care of you for a long time.

MM: Are there any skin myths you want to debunk? For example, do you know if it’s true that biotin is an acne trigger?

ST: It is true that there is a possibility that taking too much biotin can cause acne. I’m not sure of all the myths out there but it's mostly products out there that say they can perform these miracles that I would debunk. If it's too good to be true it probably is. My clients who have the greatest results have been seeing me consistently for months/years and using professional-grade products.

MM: I’m really serious about my skincare routine, and it’s become my way of giving myself some self-care and self-love. How do you practice self-love? What is the best advice you’ve received about loving the skin you’re in?

ST: Well between all my jobs, I try to give myself some kind of skincare treatment a couple times a month. I used to try to video it all so I can post it to Instagram, but now I’ll just do something without thinking about posting it to make it more relaxing. Time is something I don’t always have a lot of, so I have always tried to multi-task. It makes things a little more difficult and hectic. Spending time with friends and family is my self-love. The older I get, the less free time I seem to have, so I try to make time to relax and laugh with friends. “Take each day at a time.” One day you might not be feeling so great about your skin, but the next day it could be different. Try your best to keep up with your healthy skin routines and know if you weren't so great today, tomorrow is another chance to make it better.

Steph answers your questions that were submitted on Instagram:

How do you recommend we try products out? If we start a new product and see that we’re breaking out, is that purging, or could that product not be suitable for me?

When trying out a new product, try to just start with one new product so if you have a reaction, you know which one it is. When you're washing your face before you start a product, feel around to where the bumps already are. If they come to the surface, that is purging. If you didn’t feel anything there from before, it caused you to break out. You can purge from a new product for 2-4 weeks.

What are your thoughts on at-home tools like skin rollers?

The needles, no because you can’t properly sanitize them. Jade rollers are fine.

Which is better? Chemical or physical exfoliants?

One is not better than the other, they both do separate things in different ways. I like doing a chemical exfoliant one to two times a month and physical exfoliants one to three times a week.

Do you need to start using anti-aging neck creams in your 20s? I’m currently 25 and haven’t used them and seen some people mention it so just wondering when to start using those creams. And are these neck creams any good?

Nobody “needs” anything, but it is good to start neck creams when you're younger. We are always trying to prevent things from happening, so the earlier you start the less you have to worry about it when you get older. One way to save some money is, when you are applying your antiaging skin products, use the remnants on your hands and put them in an upward motion on your neck. Remember to use sunscreen if your neck is exposed and be conscious of tech neck!

What are your top five moisturizers?

My top Hydration products:

1. Hyalauronic Acid By Saian

2. Cicalfate Post Procedure by Avene

3. Triple Lipid By SkinCeuticals

4. Replenshing cream from Saian

5. Hydration Boosting Cream Skin Better

What’s your favorite exfoliant?

Saian Honey Vanilla Scrub or Strawberry Scrub

What’s a good lip scrub?

Mirabella, Farmhouse Fresh, or Eminence.